Monday, November 23, 2009

Recipe for Pasta Diane

(Pasta with Pancetta, Basil and Mozzarella)

This is one of those magical dishes that is so much better than the sum of its parts. The real secret to this dish is the ingredients aren’t brought together until seconds before serving. The melting fresh mozzarella and tomatoes combine in a warmed serving bowl to produce a wonderful, silky pink cream sauce that is unlike anything else, melded with flavors of basil, garlic, and crisp bacon. The magic only lasts for about 25 minutes so make sure you time it correctly and don’t perform the final step until everyone is at the table, fork in hand, and ready to eat.


This recipe evolved over many years in our home kitchen, once we worked out the basic technique and ingredients, we experimented with other things to see what helped the dish and what didn't, and this is where we ended up. (Diane's biggest complaint is I'd make something that turned out good, but would never write down how I did it.) So here it is, and I dedicate it to Diane for all of her patience. Hope you like it!


-Chris


Ingredients: (Serves 4)

  • 1 28-oz can whole tomatoes (or 2 lbs fresh tomatoes)
  • 1/2 lb diced Pancetta (or Bacon, 1/4” pieces is best)
  • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 minced garlic cloves
  • 1 lb pasta
  • 1 package (about 3/4 lb) fresh whole milk mozzarella or Buffalo-milk mozzarella, diced into 3/4 inch cubes.
  • 2 handfuls (about 1 cup) fresh basil leaves, cut into 1/8 inch strips
  • 1/2 teaspoon each red pepper flakes & ground black pepper


Steps
:

  1. Bring a pot of salted water to boil for the pasta.
  2. Heat your serving bowls in a 250 degree oven. It's important to start this early so they’re nice and warm, the hot bowls are a key part of the dish.
  3. Drain tomatoes, reserving juice. (use a strainer set over a bowl to catch the juice.) Break up the tomatoes a bit with a fork or your hands into large chunks, they will break down more as they cook.
  4. In a non-reactive pan, sauté Pancetta over medium heat in 1 Tbsp of the olive oil until crisp. Remove to paper towel and leave the drippings in the pan. There should be about 2 Tbsp of drippings, if not, add more olive oil.
  5. Add pasta to water, cook until just al dente (8-9 minutes). It will finish cooking in the sauce.
  6. Raise pan to medium-high. With your tomatoes ready, add 3 minced garlic cloves to the pan. In about 30 seconds, or whenever you first smell garlic, add tomatoes and about ½ their juice, stir, raise heat to medium-high to bring tomatoes to boil.
  7. Cook the tomatoes over medium-high while the pasta cooks, break up any large chunks with the back of your spoon. Stir regularly. Keep an eye on the level of liquid, add more juice one tablespoon at a time if it starts to look dry.
  8. Drain the pasta, then add to the tomatoes. Add the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil. Toss well and place back over heat. The pasta will absorb some of the liquid from the sauce at this point, so be ready to add more tomato juice (if needed).
  9. Get your warmed serving bowls ready.
  10. Add the bacon, basil, mozzarella, black pepper, and red pepper flakes to the sauce; toss and cook for about 45 seconds over high or until the mozzarella just starts to melt (leaves stringy streaks in the pan), then spoon into bowls and serve. I will sometimes load the bowls directly at the table.

Sprinkle some grated parmegiano reggiano at the table, the pasta should be plenty salty from the cooking water and the bacon.


Tips
:

  • Consume within minutes of serving, you want to catch it right as the mozzarella is melting and releasing its liquid but before it melts completely. You have about 25 minutes, after that it will still be good but not as great. If you get a large mass of cheese forming in your bowl, just break it up with your fork.
  • The type of bacon doesn’t matter all that much, but it’s important to cook it crisp and don't add it until the end so it retains its crispness. Pancetta, Country Ham and Prosciutto all work very well. Regular strip bacon works, but try to avoid brands that are overly smoky.
  • Cook the garlic very quickly, 30 seconds, or until you can just smell it. You want fresh garlic flavor, it will finish cooking with the tomatoes.
  • You could use about any pasta, but we like a larger rigatoni with ridges, it seems to hold the sauce best. Spirals would be good as well. We prefer dried pasta over fresh because the firmer noodles stand up better.


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